Phil loves spending time outdoors, hanging out with family and friends, cool tools, and a cold IPA when beer o'clock rolls around. Thanks everyone for all the great comments and questions! Since Phil actually has articles to write and a life outside of Home Fixated comments, we are closing comments on this thread for the time being. Stay tuned and subscribe to our newsletter for more great content like this, and good luck with your projects in the meantime!
We are taking out a wall between our kitchen and livingroom. One says we have trusses and a attic with no floor so the weight is on the outsides of the house. Is that true? Would that be a reason for non load bearing? Would you feel comfortable taking out your wall with only trusses? Is that right? Thank you SO much.
Hi, Shelley — Do the trusses run parallel or perpendicular to the wall you want to remove? Trusses are normally designed to transfer the weight of the roof to the exterior walls, so if the wall is perpendicular to the trusses, it is PROBABLY not load-bearing.
That said, there are different truss designs, and if the house was designed with the intent that the interior wall would be providing some level of stability or support, removing it could cause issues.
It would be a couple of hundred dollars well spent, for the peace of mind. Good luck! Thanks for this very instructive article!
We are planning to open up a 4. Structural engineer said neither wall is load-bearing because we have a trussed roof and there is nothing but an empty attic above. My question is does all of this sound ok to you — particularly the last part? If your structural engineer has checked and verified that neither wall is load-bearing, your plans sound fine. We have a row of base cabinets behind it on the kitchen side, and it allows room for outlets and a backsplash. It really is amazing how much bigger it makes both rooms feel.
Good luck with your project! Hey Phil, Good job. I was wondering about finishing an LVL beam. I was told by a friend that I cannot just put drywall on it with drywall screws. I have my lvl beam in place, but not sure what to do about drywall.
Would wood screws or drywall screws damage it? I would think that it must be able to handle screws but thought I would ask someone knowledgeable. Thank you, Stephen. Making them too big, or in the wrong place, can significantly weaken it.
From the local Home Depot. Hi, Thanks for the article. I am researching the header requirements for a wall opening I want to create between 2 bedrooms. Not looking to remove the entire wall so the doors would still be able to be closed to create a guest room.
The ceiling is not flat. Can you recommend a header size for this 6 opening? I was thinking to 2x10s or 2x8s? Any insight is appreciated Thank you. Sounds like a neat project, Dominique. I would lean toward the 2x10s; the additional cost is minimal, and they would provide a lot of extra strength and rigidity for your sliding doors.
I would also use two jack studs. Again, with such a short span you could probably get away with only one, but I always feel that beefier is better. Additionally, some local codes now require two jack studs; I have no knowledge of the codes in CT, but your local building inspector will be able to clue you in on that. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out! They work flawlessly, no sagging etc even on the dampest florida days.
I know this all sounds petty I just want to make sure that I do it right the first time, but at the same time not to overkill it…. Stay tuned, and good luck with your project! Thanks Paul for the fast turn around to my question. Hopefully after getting this side done I can finally decide on which type of garage doors I will place on the front side of the building.
Phil, My husband just removed a load barring wall. Do the beams in the living room run perpendicular to the wall you just put the header into? Were they attached to that wall previously, and are they attached now? We already have an opening between the kitchen and dining area where there are bar stools, but we want to make the opening taller. I would go on the assumption that whoever installed the original header knew what they were doing, and installed a header that was properly sized for the load above.
If you really want to gain the extra height, you could probably use an engineered beam. Check with someone at your local lumber yard, to see what size engineered beam would replace your current setup.
I have a prefab house built in Veterns housing. It sits on a slab. It is a small ranch and the wall I want to remove has no studs but runs perpendicular to the attic rafters. Would this be a load bearing wall?
Generally speaking, though, most walls that run perpendicular to joists above should be considered load-bearing. I want to take down a wall with a big vertical beam on the end of it. Step Proceed with track installation using the instructions that came with the track Figure 8.
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This is a switch setuptools provides if you explicitly wish to run the distutils install. The egg installer is not built, instead, the distutils. Thus, the installation is the same as with bare distutils install. Drawbacks of this approach: same as with bare distutils install plus: setuptools condemns usage of the switch; if you forget to provide it, you end with installing eggs and have to redo the installation.
When installing the package, the subdirectories should be retained now:. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams?
Collectives on Stack Overflow. Learn more. Install header-only library with Python Ask Question. Asked 3 years, 8 months ago. Active 3 years, 8 months ago. Viewed 4k times. I'm partly able, but there are two things that I cannot get working see below : How can I use python3 setup. What works With the following setup. How can I use 'python3 setup.
Using this strategy I cannot simply run python3 setup. How to retain a file structure?
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